Plate and Goblet: Gone to Waygone

Waygone Brewery is open at last!

I know I'm not the only craft beer lover who's been thirsting for a brewery in western Henrico -- and the sign for Waygone was up for well over a year before it opened.

I stopped in just after the inaugural week, and the place was bustling, even on a Tuesday. I sampled three IPA's and the lone stout, and the Cabin Branch Stout (which I learned is rapidly rising into the ranks of Waygone top sellers) won me over big time. Even people who don't like stouts like Cabin Branch, I was told. Much as I prefer the heavy "motor-oil"-style stouts, I had to agree this lighter one has all the satisfying roastiness of the full-bodied ales.

Waygone's number-one favorite and top seller is its "bridge beer," Afterthought, a hoppy lager that pleases even non-hopheads. Just as the Cabin Branch might win converts from previous stout-avoiders, the lager acts as a bridge for those who once avoided craft beers and drank only mass-produced pilsners.

Aside from its beer and the friendliness of the staff, what I like most about Waygone is its name – and the story behind it.

The brewery was founded by two couples who live on Goneway Drive – not far from its location in Canterbury Shopping Center. After they became friends, and the men had been home-brewing together for awhile, they decided to make the move into the brew-pub business.

And today, three signs adorn the Waygone walls: a couple of Goneway street signs, and another that was displayed in one couple's backyard. This sign, lettered with faux moss and spelling out "Waygone," may well represent the original appearance of the future brewery's brand.

Drink up for a cause

Now through Dec. 31, Mellow Mushroom in Short Pump will offer a Blitzen holiday cocktail – made with Flor de Caña 7 Year Rum, St. Germain Elderflower liqueur, tart Monin Pomegranate, fresh sour, and a splash of soda water – and sales will benefit a worthy children's cause.

For each Blitzen sold through the end of the year, Mellow Mushroom will donate $1 to the World Pediatric Project, which provides pediatric surgical and specialty care to children in need throughout the Caribbean and Central America.

The promotion is available only at the Short Pump location of Mellow Mushroom (12171 W Broad St), through December 31.

Gelato coming to Lakeside

If the downturn in temperatures has you already longing for spring, here's another reason to look forward to the change in season: the opening of a new gelato shop.

Layne Montgomery, owner of Davvero Gelato, announced on Facebook recently that she will set up shop in Lakeside, at the site of a former barbershop in The Hub.

"I couldn’t ask for a better location," Montgomery wrote. "Tucked away between Love Shack, a chocolatier and dog groomer – so many cute dogs."

The Lakeside site has a family connection as well, as Montgomery pointed out that Lakeside was the home of her grandfather’s business, Montgomery Body Shop, for more than 60 years.

A native of Glen Allen, Montgomery fell in love with gelato on her travels to Italy, and makes her own oat milk base for the dairy-free, vegan gelato. She launched Davvero Gelato in 2020 (the word davvero translates to “really” or “the real") and delivered pints of gelato to customers in Richmond throughout the pandemic.

Davvero's Lakeside location is projected to open in the spring, after renovations are finished on the 75-year-old barbershop.

Montgomery remarked, however, that elements of the old barbershop will still be part of the decor. "I'm definitely keeping a chair or two."

Bakery pop-up

Another small business that deserves a mention is Cake Charles, which is run by a Richmond-area couple. My daughter's in-laws discovered the bakery on a trip to Cape Charles, and I had a chance to sample their pies at Thanksgiving, after picking up the pre-orders from a van in the Ridge Shopping Center. My son-in-law's mom had ordered gluten-free pecan and cranberry-orange pies, and they were outstanding.

Although the Eastern Shore site is closed until June, Cake Charles will hold another special weekend pop-up here in early December, and again for Easter and Mother's Day. They also take orders for special events or occasions, which can be delivered to Cape Charles or Richmond. Check it out at www.cakecharles.com.

Sparkling water wars

We all know to avoid talk of politics and religion at the Thanksgiving table. But over the holiday I learned of another highly divisive topic that brings out the passion in people: LaCroix's limoncello flavored sparkling water. When a friend recently handed me a can of this LaCroix flavor, I expected to dislike it, since I've never cared for the acid edge to citrusy drinks. But there's only a subtle hint of citrus in the limoncello flavor; the mouth-feel is strictly creamy. It reminded me a bit of a cream soda without the sugar.

But when I raved about my discovery to others at Thanksgiving, I discovered a distinct divide. A few of my younger male relatives pronounced it unpalatable; one even called it gross. Others (mostly female) loved it as I did; very few were meh.

When I looked at online reviews, I found the same split. Several limoncello lovers gushed that it was their favorite flavor.

"A creamy lemon flavor with just the right carbonated zing," said one. "Tastes exactly like lemon pound cake," said another. Other commenters compared the flavor to "lemony marshmallows," lemon frosting, and "a lemon bar without the sugar."

They hailed the limoncello flavor as "refreshing," "sweet and mellow," and less sharp and citrusy than standard lemon flavors. "Tastes like the lemon version of a Creamsicle – kind of vanilla-y," added a fan. Oh, but the haters were every bit as fervent with their criticism.

More than one called the flavor "absolutely disgusting." Others said it tasted like "baby wipes" or "dishwashing liquid with no lemon flavor at all." One commenter compared the taste to battery acid infused with intestinal gases (the actual comment was considerably more graphic). "It is the worst thing I've had out of a can since I was a kid," added another.

One enterprising employee took an office poll and said the flavor was "roundly rejected" by the eight or nine coworkers who drank sparkling water. "It has a very strange lemon flavor, and I agree with the person who says it tastes like a perfume."

If your curiosity is piqued now – or if you've already tried limoncello and have a strong opinion either way – I'd be curious to hear from both fans and critics. If other brands or flavors are favored in your household, I'd like to hear about those, too.

I read recently that sparkling water – rapidly growing in popularity as a healthier alternative to soda – is a $32 billion dollar industry. With that kind of profit at stake, I doubt we have seen the end of new flavor offerings. What flavors would you like to see? Send your suggestions, comments, praises and pans to patty@henricocitizen.com.