Plate and Goblet: A day of umami; Oyster Week and Taco Day; kudos for Henrico Q

Families and foodies thronged the grounds of San-J International Sept. 15 for the 3rd annual open house featuring demonstrations, classes, tastings, and do-it-yourself workshops.

Those who'd registered for a tour of the facility near the Richmond airport (the first Tamari brewing facility built in the U.S.) lined up in protective smocks and caps to peek inside the factory and learn about the steps in making fermented products. Tour-goers were also invited to taste moromi, the soybean mash produced during fermentation, at the halfway point of its four-week fermentation process.

At one of the do-it-yourself workshops I attended ('Make your own ponzu') we also got to sample yellow, white and black koji (cooked rice) to taste the difference between possible variations of the Japanese condiment. We made our take-home jars of ponzu from white koji, to which we added soy sauce. For extra umami (which translates as “delicious savory taste” in Japanese), we added shiitake mushroom and kombu. After about 10 days, the ponzu thickens and becomes "gently acidic" – ready to use as a marinade or dipping sauce.

My only regret when it came to all the tasting opportunities was that there were none at the sake booth – just a display of products and signs inviting visitors to visit the North American Sake brewery in Charlottesville.

As for the highlight of my tastings, that one is easy: the frozen custard drizzled with tamari sauce. It's a topping idea I would've never dreamed up on my own – but that immediately got me thinking about other dessert possibilities. Just search online for "tamari ice cream sundae" and "tamari ice cream with toasted pecan marshmallows" – and you'll see San-J is at the forefront of creative-yet-easy dessert recipes.

Among other workshops I joined over the course of the afternoon were ones inviting visitors to "Make your own tamari paste," "Make your own shoyu," and "Make your own miso balls." At another booth, I learned the ancient art of furoshiki (wrapping cloths), and got to take home the bottle of tamari I wrapped, along with its cloth carrier.

The furoshiki demo (as did many of the workshops I attended) made me curious about the origins of the tradition, so I later went online to explore. It turns out that furoshiki ("bath spread") cloths were first developed in the eighth century to protect precious temple objects. Later, the cloths became popular as a way for VIP's to package their valuables while at the bathhouse, and were decorated with the family crest.

After three hours of demonstrations, tastings, and classes, I came home with a bag full of samples, a head full of knowledge about Japanese culture and traditions, and my taste buds exhausted – but pleasantly so. I wasn't sure what to expect from my first San-J open house – but when the next one rolls around, you can be sure I will be among the first to sign up!

News you can use
• The inaugural Oyster Week RVA will run from Oct. 1-7, showcasing homegrown Virginia oysters and benefiting an excellent cause: the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. Among the participating restaurants in Henrico and vicinity are Acacia Midtown, Crafted, Tarrants West, The Boathouse at Rocketts Landing, and West Coast Provisions.

• On Oct. 4, Chuy's will celebrate National Taco Day with deals on menu items. For guests who come dressed as a taco, the deal is even better – as in free! Anyone visiting Chuy’s dressed like a taco on Taco Day can post a photo on social media with #ChuysTacoDay and receive a free, dine-in entrée of their choice. In Henrico, Chuy's is located at 1229 West Broad Street in West Broad Village.

Redemption BBQ
Southern Living recently highlighted 22 new (opened since 2021) BBQ restaurants across the South – and Short Pump's Redemption BBQ on Lauderdale Drive made the list. Lauding Redemption barbecue for its tender, juicy pork and tart-and-tangy sauce, the author acknowledged that finding such excellence in a nondescript suburban shopping center was a bit of surprise. He also had a bit of fun with the restaurant name – pointing out that owner John Vest is a "pastor turned pitmaster," and wrapping up his plaudits with a hearty "Amen."

Kudos for Henrico venues
• Richmond Magazine recently highlighted another establishment in a western Henrico shopping center: The Verdant Lady on Gaskins Road. The feature praised the cocktail bar's "fairyland" vibe and elegantly lit, plant-lined interior – in addition to its menu of both classic and unique cocktails. Verdant Lady is partnered with its neighbor in the Gayton Crossing Shopping Center, the French restaurant Les Crêpes.

• Richmond Magazine also recently profiled Shoreline Seafood Market in the Canterbury Shopping Center on Patterson Avenue. Like the popular multifaceted fish markets found in Washington, D.C., and points north, the article notes, Shoreline "pulls triple duty": operating a grocery store, seafood shop, and mini-restaurant, all in one place.

Openings and closings
• Davvero Gelato is now open in Lakeside, serving vegan frozen treats and a variety of coffees. In a recent Facebook post, the shop announced new flavors that included such varieties as tahini with helva and pomegranate molasses, and mixed berry chocolate chip.

• The Mantu Express has opened in Short Pump. Located in the former Two Guys Pizza at 11636 West Broad Street (and still serving subs and pizza), the fast-casual Afghan spot is named for the traditional dumplings that are a centerpiece of the menu. Henricoans now have two sites where they can obtain Chef Hamid Noori's specialties; the other is Mantu Market, a deli and grocery with dine-in space, opened at 7510 West Broad in 2022.

• Devil's Lettuce Vegan Food Joint is now open at 9050 West Broad Street. Originally located at the front of Hurley’s Tavern in Innsbrook, it has moved to Tuckernuck Square.

• Honest Indian Vegetarian Restaurant is open at 8900 West Broad Street. Begun as a street cart in 1975, the international chain now has locations in Thailand, Australia, Canada, and the U.S.

• Cookie Chris, which sells an assortment of cookies, has opened in Short Pump at 11571 West Broad Street.

• Burger Bach has closed its West Broad Village location; the sites in Carytown and Midlothian remain open.

• Carrabba’s Italian Grill at West Broad Village has closed.

• Saladworks in the Shoppes at Reynolds Crossing has closed.

Coming soon
• Richmond BizSense reported recently that Foxtail Coffee Co., a Florida chain, will open an outpost this fall in West Broad Village – its first cafe in Virginia. The chain features espresso and cold-brew coffee, as well as teas, baked goods and breakfast sandwiches.

• BizSense also reported that Ford's Garage, a car-themed restaurant, will take over the West Broad Village space that formerly housed MPM Tiki Bar. (MPM is still located in the Village but has relocated to 2451 Old Brick Road.)

• The Cava Mezze Grill chain is expected to open a new location on Brook Road in Glen Allen early in 2025.